Jaipur Old City

Jaipur Old City

If you only have one morning in Jaipur’s Old City, these are my must-visits. Arrive early - before the traffic and midday heat - for a rare glimpse of the city at its most peaceful.

Flower market

7:30AM

Dawn Walk

Begin with Dhoop Aarti at Govind Dev Ji Temple - one of the most invigorating starts to the day. Afterwards, wander through the nearby flower market, or phool mandi, where profusions of scented rose and marigold petals arrive fresh from local farms.

There are countless street food stalls for breakfast - I recommend mawa kachori and a hot masala chai.

I also cannot recommend a walking tour with Jaipur Houses enough. Bharat has an extraordinary ability to bring the history of the Pink City to life.

9:00AM

Hawa Mahal Views

By now, you will probably be ready for a caffeine boost before the shops and sights. Wind View Cafe has an unrivalled view of the Hawa Mahal. There is a small entry fee but it is well worth it. The masala chai is strong, hot and very sweet.

Next door, Tattoo Cafe & Lounge offers comparable views with a little more space if the terrace is full.

Tattoo Lounge And Cafe Jaipur
Indian Art House

9:30AM

Shops in the Lanes

Indian Art House is a treasure trove of art, antiques and textiles. Lose yourself in the world of Mr Sawan Kumar and his family - it feels as much like an inspiring gallery as a shop.

Saurashtra Impex is best known for fabrics but I visit for the rugs and pleated lampshades, both available in bespoke colours and sizes. Kishor and his sons have an admirable depth of craft knowledge.

"Rosanna’s first trip to India, back in 2012, saw her journey to Goa with her then boyfriend George. A second trip saw them venture further afield to the Andaman Islands. And the third - on their honeymoon - to Rajasthan. To say that they fell in love with the region is something of an understatement."

COUNTRY LIFE MAGAZINE

City Palace Museum Jaipur India

11AM

City Palace

If you do just one thing on your trip, make it the Royal Tour. An expert palace guide will take you on a one-on-one tour of the private palace rooms. While there, don’t miss the latest at Jaipur Centre For Art and the newly re-opened Sabha Niwas at the City Palace Museum.

12:30PM

Palace Shops

The PDKF Store is the cutest, most colourful shop in the city, all made by the talented ladies of the Princess Diya Kumari Foundation. Just next-door, The Palace Atelier is the museum shop of my dreams. Every piece — whether a little memento like a postcard or a couture lehenga — reflects the creative flair of its founders.

PDKF Store Jaipur

1:00PM

The Johri

Head to the colonnaded pavements lined with coloured stones of Johri Bazaar, plus lunch at my favourite restaurant in the city - the award-winning Johri. The refined vegetarian food is as delicious as the interiors. If you’re after a special piece of jewellery, make an appointment at nearby Tallin Jewels.

STAY

Hotel Picks

If you can't resist the pull of the Old City and wish to stay longer, Samode Haveli has always been top of my list since we stayed on honeymoon. A true haven, its gardens never fail to calm me. The best room? The Sheesh Mahal.

For more boutique options, Padmaa is a 289-year-old haveli reimagined in pinks and mints, with a sensational rooftop bar.

Or of course, there's no need to leave The Johri after lunch. Its five suites book up months in advance - unsurprising for a hotel named Condé Nast Traveller India’s Best Boutique Hotel 2024.

Latest Designs

Hand-drawn by Rosanna, hand block printed in Jaipur.

The Journal

A+D Magazine Feature

A+D Magazine Feature

A feature in Architecture + Design magazine's 'Women Championing Crafts in India', exploring Jaipur block printing, craft heritage and contemporary design in India.

Read more

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