A haven away from the bustle of the bazaars. Agora is a concept store and café co-founded by husband-and-wife team Vartika and Shalabh in their family home. Vartika has worked with craftspeople for more than 15 years, and the shop draws on her deep knowledge of Jaipur’s craft traditions. Upstairs, the vegetarian café serves delicious food made with impeccably sourced ingredients.

Agora Jaipur, 63–64 Hawa Mahal Rd

The Old City has long organised its crafts into different streets. This one is home to lac bangle makers. Lac is a natural resin secreted by the lac insect, then heated, coloured and shaped by hand. During monsoon, the street was a riot of colour, with women choosing leheriya-patterned bangles for Teej.

Maniharon Ka Rasta, Tripolia Bazaar

No wander through the Old City is complete without something to eat. Jalebi is best served hot: ribbons of batter spiralled into oil, fried until crisp and soaked in sugar syrup. The crunch of the first bite followed by the sticky centre is what makes it.
Jalebi stall, 2187 Pandit Shivdin Ji Ka Rasta

For something savoury, a tiny Old City institution has been making hing kachori since 1963 - crisp pastry filled with spiced dal and hing, served with yoghurt.
Puran Ji Kachori Wala, SBBJ Street, 1182 Natanion Ka Rasta, Chaura Rasta

And during monsoon, ghewar is synonymous with Teej. Its extraordinary honeycomb structure is created by pouring thin, cold batter into hot fat; mine was finished with malai. As sweet and delicious as you’d expect.
Sambhar Fini Wala, Shop 25–27, Ghee Walo Ka Rasta, Johari Bazaar

Johari Bazaar has long been renowned for coloured gemstones. While many jewellers have moved beyond the Old City, Tallin Jewels founder Akshat Ghiya remains inspired by its energy. His fine jewellery is light, full of movement and notable for irregular stone cuts that can only be manipulated by hand. The dexterity of the workshop - and the resulting jewellery - is a marvel.

Tallin Jewels, Johari Bazaar (by appointment only)

I discovered the back lanes of Tripolia Bazaar while searching for trims for my daughters’ Teej outfits. This tiny shop is filled floor to ceiling with ribbons, lace and traditional gota-patti work. One for the address book if, like me, you find it impossible to resist a good trim.

Meenu Jari Centre, Opposite Malpani Building, Katla Purohit Ji, Johri Bazar

Behind an unassuming arch in Jaipur’s Old City lies a fourth-generation family business where dhurries - India’s flatwoven rugs - have been made for nearly a century. Husband-and-wife Kunil and Sujata showed me how specially dyed cotton and wool are woven to create their distinctive flat surface. Craftsman Rafeeq has worked here for 50 years, and even the finishing is completed by hand. In the shop, traditional geometrics sit alongside intricate florals, with smaller pieces and accessories ensuring little goes to waste.

Dheer Rugs, 887, Dariba Pan, opposite Hawa Mahal 

One of C-Scheme’s newer openings, Doppler Coffee was founded around three passions: coffee, community and craft. It’s become a bustling meeting place, yet somehow there’s always a quiet corner to retreat to, especially in the mornings.

Doppler, G-21, Kamla Marg, C Scheme, Ashok Nagar

I’ve been visiting Saurashtra Impex since 2018, yet always seem to discover something new. It’s a treasure trove of Indian craft, from block-printed linens and scalloped lampshades to dhurrie rugs - and, as I only recently discovered, bespoke hand-knotted rugs too.

1346, Chomu Thakur Ki Haveli, Amer Rd, near Samode Haveli, Chokdi Gangapol

When Sawai Jai Singh II founded Jaipur nearly 300 years ago, he created areas for different craft communities. That legacy continues in Khajane Walon Ka Rasta, home to thousands of stone carvers and particularly renowned for murtis, or sacred statues. Wander beyond the main road: some of the most fascinating workshops are tucked down the surrounding lanes.

Jaipur’s tradition of perfumery is perhaps less well known than its textiles and jewellery. At this Old City shop, Anil and his uncle Roy continue the legacy of a business founded by their grandfather in 1948, hand-blending perfume oils with extraordinary knowledge of their ingredients. Ask to see the collection of vintage scent bottles too - little treasures from another era.

71 Johari Bazaar (discover more @jaipurperfumecompany, they ship internationally!)

My friend Devyani introduced me to this labyrinth of wholesale sari and lehenga shops hidden within Jaipur’s Old City. Every turn reveals another riot of colour and embroidery. During monsoon it was the traditional leheriya that caught my eye; come wedding season, these lanes become busier still.

Purohit Ji Ka Katla – Tripolia Bazaar